The Irwin 10 in tenon saw delivers sharp, accurate cuts and a comfortable grip, making fine joinery easy and affordable.
Right Saw = Snug Fit
Choosing the right hand saw for tenon joints can make the difference between a snug, durable fit and a sloppy, weakened connection.
Factors like tooth count, blade stiffness, kerf width, and handle ergonomics all affect cut accuracy and ease of use.
You’ll also need to consider blade material (resharpenable vs. impulse-hardened) and whether you’re willing to tune your saw before each use.
In this guide, we’ll highlight these critical concerns to help you pick a tenon saw that delivers precise shoulders and cheeks with minimal tear-out and fatigue.
Key Takeaways
- IRWIN Tenon Saw excels overall for tenon joints.
- Choose a 10–12 in backsaw with 12–14 TPI for balanced speed and precision.
- A rigid brass or steel spine keeps cuts square and prevents flex.
- Closed pistol-grip handles align wrist and blade for better control.
- Narrow kerf saws remove less wood for tighter tenon fits.
- Rip filing on cheeks and crosscut filing on shoulders ensures clean cuts.
- High-carbon, resharpenable blades extend tool life versus impulse-hardened.
- Initial tuning (coating removal, tooth set) maximizes out-of-box performance.
- Proper marking, shoulder-first cuts, and clamping reduce tear-out and errors.
- Regular cleaning, oiling, and filing maintain sharpness and accuracy.
- Match saw type (tenon, dovetail, carcass) to tenon size and cut direction.
Some or all Images are generated by AI for illustration.
Best Hand Saws For Tenon Joints
Name | Details | Blade Length | TPI |
|---|---|---|---|
10 in (250 mm) | 12 TPI | ||
12 in (305 mm) | 13 TPI | ||
12 in (300 mm) | 13 TPI | ||
12 in (300 mm) | 12 TPI | ||
6 in (150 mm) | 17 Teeth, 20 Teeth |
Note: We don’t test products ourselves. Instead, we go through user reviews and/or community discussions to find and recommend the best options.
1. IRWIN Tenon Saw
The Irwin 10 in tenon saw delivers sharp, accurate cuts and a comfortable grip, making fine joinery easy and affordable.
Key Features
- Blade Length: 10 in (250 mm)
- TPI: 12 TPI
- Blade Material: Welded [specific metal unspecified]
- Handle Type and Material: Ultrasonic-welded soft-grip handle
- Saw Type: Tenon saw
- Cutting Angle / Set: Triple-ground tooth set (TGT) for efficient push and pull cuts
- Weight: 0.33 lb (0.15 kg)
Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Sharpness Retention: Hardpoint teeth stay sharp through repeated cuts, delivering precise tenon shoulders without frequent upkeep.
- Comfort Grip: Soft-grip handle angle aligns naturally with the blade, reducing hand fatigue on extended joinery tasks.
- Cut Precision: Fine 12 tpi blade slices accurately and swiftly, producing clean cheeks and shoulders for snug joints.
- Balanced Weight: At just 0.33 lb (0.15 kg), the saw feels stable in hand and eases wrist strain during detailed work.
- Value: Priced below many competitors, it delivers professional-level performance without breaking the budget.
Cons:
- Fixed Blade: Hardpoint welded blade cannot be resharpened once dull, necessitating full saw replacement.
- Wood Tear-Out: Occasional splintering at exit points, requiring minor cleanup for perfect tenons.
- Handle Fit: Finger recess may feel too small for larger hands, potentially causing discomfort during prolonged use.
Note: These pros and cons are based on user reviews and/or latent consensus. It and any information derived from it is susceptible to misinterpretation.
Our Verdict
This Irwin tenon saw excels at precise, comfortable joinery cuts.
Buy If:
- You need crisp tenon cuts without frequent sharpening.
- You work long sessions and want a soft-grip handle for comfort.
- You value a lightweight saw that’s easy to control.
- You seek professional performance at an affordable price.
Don’t Buy If:
- You require a resharpenable blade for extended tool life.
- You have larger hands that may not fit the finger recess comfortably.
- You’re sensitive to occasional tear-out on exit strokes.
Overall, this 10 in tenon saw is a standout for DIYers and tradespeople focused on fine joinery, offering sharp cuts and ease of use at a great price. Just be aware of its non-resharpenable blade if you plan to use it over the long-term.
2. Crown Tenon Saw
Crown’s 12 in brass-back tenon saw delivers precise, durable cuts once tuned, thanks to its high-carbon blade and balanced weight. Its comfortable beech handle and resharpenable teeth make it a long-lasting, cost-effective choice.
Key Features
- Blade Length: 12 in (305 mm)
- TPI: 13 TPI (teeth per inch )
- Blade Material: Resharpenable high-carbon steel
- Handle Type and Material: Full handle of German beech (Fagus sylvatica) secured with screws
- Saw Type: Tenon saw
- Cutting Angle / Set: [Missing data]
- Weight: 1.65 lb (0.75 kg)
Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Tunable Blade: Responds well to cleaning off the coating and resetting teeth, yielding a smooth, accurate kerf for tenon work.
- Comfortable Handle: German beech handle with screw-on design lets you adjust grip and reduces hand fatigue during long cuts.
- Balanced Weight: Brass back adds momentum so the saw cuts through tenons with minimal downward pressure and effort.
- Durable Construction: High-carbon steel blade paired with a solid brass spine offers long-term reliability and resistance to bending.
- Cost-Effective: Mid-range price point delivers performance on par with premium saws, saving money without sacrificing quality.
- Resharpenable Teeth: Blade can be refiled and reset indefinitely, extending tool life and maintaining cutting precision.
Cons:
- Initial Tuning: Saw arrives with a factory coating and set that must be removed and adjusted before it will cut smoothly.
- Protective Coating: Out-of-box coating causes drag and inhibits performance until cleaned off with solvent.
- Quality Control: Occasional reports of bent blades or misaligned screws require inspection and minor straightening on arrival.
- Handle Fit: Some users need to reshaping or tweak the handle to suit their hand size, adding setup time.
- Uneven Set: Single report of inconsistent tooth set affecting cut alignment; may require extra resetting.
Note: These pros and cons are based on user reviews and/or latent consensus. It and any information derived from it is susceptible to misinterpretation.
Our Verdict
This saw excels at tenon joinery once properly tuned.
Buy If:
- You need a blade that responds well to cleaning and tooth resetting for smooth, accurate cuts.
- You value a sturdy, ergonomic handle that you can adjust for comfort during long sessions.
- You want the added momentum of a brass back to slice through joints with minimal downward pressure.
- You plan to maintain the tool via resharpening for long-term precision.
Don’t Buy If:
- You expect perfect out-of-box sharpness and set without any tuning.
- You dislike removing factory coatings before the saw performs at its best.
- You require flawless quality control without inspecting for bends or misaligned screws.
- You have very small hands and don’t want to reshape or tweak the handle.
Overall, this Crown tenon saw offers durable construction, ergonomic balance, and long-term value for DIYers and tradespeople willing to invest time in setup. If you prioritize immediate out-of-box use or have strict QC needs, you may prefer a different model.
3. Lynx Thomas Flinn
A finely balanced, high-TPI tenon saw with a comfortable beechwood handle and alloy steel blade that delivers precise shoulder cuts once lightly tuned. Ideal for DIYers and pros seeking lasting accuracy.
Key Features
- Blade Length: 12 in (30 cm) blade for ample cutting reach.
- TPI: 13 TPI balances cutting speed with a clean finish.
- Blade Material: Sheffield alloy spring steel for durability and edge retention.
- Handle Type and Material: Stained European Beech handle with brass button screws for comfort and stability.
- Saw Type: Tenon saw suited to precise shoulder and joint cutting.
- Cutting Angle / Set: Filed for rip cutting [Unclear set specifications], optimized for cutting with the grain.
- Weight: Lightweight design reduces user fatigue [Exact weight missing].
Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Handle Comfort: Beechwood tote ergonomics fit a range of hand sizes, reducing grip strain during extended tenon shoulder cuts.
- Balanced Weight: Ample heft lets the saw feed itself through hardwoods like oak with minimal user force.
- Cut Precision: Fine 13–15 TPI delivers clean, accurate rip cuts crucial for snug tenon shoulders.
- Resharpenable: Alloy steel blade and brass spine allow multiple tune-ups, extending saw life and maintaining edge.
- After-Tuning Performance: Once lightly filed and honed, the saw slices rapidly, comparable to high-end dovetail saws.
Cons:
- Initial Tuning: Out of the box, teeth often need filing and set adjustment before smooth starts.
- Cutting Speed: Higher tooth count slows rough ripping compared to lower-TPI rip saws.
- Protective Coating: Factory lacquer adds friction, making the blade grab wood until removed.
- Kerf Width: The cut can feel wider, wasting more material in tight joinery.
Note: These pros and cons are based on user reviews and/or latent consensus. It and any information derived from it is susceptible to misinterpretation.
Our Verdict
A standout choice for precise tenon shoulder cuts.
Buy If:
- You value a comfortable beechwood handle for extended use.
- You need a balanced saw that feeds through hardwoods with minimal effort.
- You want fine 13–15 TPI for clean, accurate rip cuts.
- You’re willing to tune and hone the blade for top-speed performance.
Don’t Buy If:
- You need a saw that’s perfectly ready out of the box.
- You primarily do fast, rough ripping on large stock.
- You can’t afford material loss from a wider kerf.
Overall, this Lynx tenon saw delivers exceptional precision and durability once properly tuned. It’s ideal for DIYers and pros who prioritize accurate tenon shoulders and don’t mind a brief setup.
4. S & J Tenon Saw
A heavy brass‑back tenon saw that delivers precise, durable cuts after simple tuning. Great value for DIYers who don’t mind a bit of setup to get razor‑sharp performance.
Key Features
- Blade Length: 12 in (30 cm)
- TPI: 13 PPI (12 TPI)
- Blade Material: High carbon steel blade (holds a sharp edge)
- Handle Type and Material: Wooden handle secured with brass screws (comfortable grip)
- Saw Type: Traditional tenon saw (for precise joint cutting)
- Cutting Angle / Set: [Missing data]
- Weight: 1.21 lbs (0.55kg)
Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Value: Delivers performance on par with pricier saws once lightly tuned, giving precise tenon cuts at a budget price.
- Weight: Brass back imparts solid momentum and stability, letting the saw feed itself with minimal user pressure.
- Sharpenable: Carbon‐steel teeth take new edges quickly, so you can restore sharpness without specialized tools.
- Durability: High‐carbon blade and protective lacquer resist corrosion and wear, lasting through years of tuning and use.
- Balance: Even weight distribution helps maintain straight cuts when the handle is gripped correctly.
Cons:
- Handle Fit: Handle opening often feels too tight or oddly shaped, causing discomfort until reshaped.
- Wide Set: Factory tooth set is excessive, resulting in a rough, oversized kerf that demands filing or hammering down.
- Out‑of‑Box: Requires immediate fettling, jointing, set reduction, and resharpening, before it will cut accurately.
- Fatigue: Heavier build leads to quicker user fatigue during extended joinery work.
- Precision: Thick blade and large kerf hinder ultra-fine cuts, limiting suitability for delicate dovetails.
Note: These pros and cons are based on user reviews and/or latent consensus. It and any information derived from it is susceptible to misinterpretation.
Our Verdict
A budget-friendly tenon saw that rewards a bit of setup with lasting performance.
Buy If:
- You don’t mind tuning teeth and set for a precise tenon cut.
- You want a heavy brass‑backed saw that feeds itself with minimal pressure.
- You plan to sharpen regularly to maintain razor‑sharp edges.
- You need a durable carbon‑steel blade that resists corrosion.
Don’t Buy If:
- You need perfect cutting performance straight from the package.
- You require an ultra‑fine kerf for delicate dovetail joints.
- You prefer an ergonomic handle without reshaping.
- You’ll be doing long sessions and want a lighter saw to reduce fatigue.
With a little fettling, this saw punches well above its price point. It’s ideal for tradespeople and DIYers who enjoy tool tuning and want a sturdy, maintainable tenon saw. But it’s less suited to those demanding flawless, out‑of‑box precision and comfort.
5. Temple Tool Co.
A precision Japanese-style flush-cut saw that excels at clean, razor-sharp tenon and dowel trimming with minimal sanding—ideal for fine joinery, though its thin blade can flex in very dense woods.
Key Features
- Blade Length: 6 in (15 cm) blade lets you trim dowels and tenons flush to a surface.
- TPI: 17 teeth for hardwood, 20 teeth for softwood
- Blade Material: High-carbon steel maintains sharpness for clean cuts.
- Handle Type and Material: Solid beech wood handle with brass fittings for a secure, comfortable grip.
- Saw Type: Double-edge Japanese pull saw made for precise flush cutting.
- Cutting Angle / Set: [Missing data]
- Weight: [Missing data]
Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Exceptional Sharpness: Ultra-thin, razor-sharp teeth slice tenon ends cleanly on the pull stroke for minimal effort and precise flush cuts.
- Smooth Operation: Thin-kerf blade with minimal binding tracks effortlessly along tenon shoulders, reducing tear-out and snagging.
- Thin Kerf: Narrow blade removes less material, enabling near-invisible joints and reducing sanding time on tenon shoulders.
- Blade Flexibility: Double-edged flexible steel conforms to workpiece contours for flush trimming without gouging adjacent surfaces.
- Comfortable Grip: Ergonomic solid-wood handle with brass fittings offers balanced control when cutting protruding tenons.
- Replaceable Blade: Screw-mounted blade allows quick swap-outs to maintain peak performance without replacing the entire saw.
- Scratch-Free Finish: Pull-stroke action and fine teeth leave tenon faces unmarred, preserving surrounding surfaces.
- Affordable Quality: Japanese-crafted steel and hardwood handle deliver professional results at a budget-friendly price.
Cons:
- Blade Looseness: Screws can allow the blade to shift under load, compromising straight cuts on dense tenons.
- Flimsy Construction: Thin blade may bow or flex excessively in very hard woods, reducing control on tenon shoulders.
- Teeth Bending: Fine teeth can deform if mis-aligned or bumped, impacting cut accuracy on tenon ends.
- Slower Cut: Lack of tooth set may slow trimming on larger tenons, requiring extra strokes for full-depth cuts.
Note: These pros and cons are based on user reviews and/or latent consensus. It and any information derived from it is susceptible to misinterpretation.
Our Verdict
A top choice for clean, precise tenon trimming in most woodworking tasks.
Buy If:
- You need razor-sharp, pull-stroke cuts that leave tenon shoulders perfectly flush.
- You prioritize minimal sanding thanks to its narrow kerf removing very little material.
- You want a lightweight, flexible blade that conforms to workpiece contours without marring adjacent surfaces.
- You value ergonomic solid-wood handles and quick blade swaps for continuous workflow.
Don’t Buy If:
- You frequently tackle very hard or dense woods where the thin blade may bow or flex.
- You can’t tolerate any blade movement; screw-mounted design can shift under load.
- You require heavy-duty performance on large tenons and need faster, set-teeth cutting.
- You’re concerned about fine teeth bending from bumps or rough handling.
Overall, this Japanese-style flush-cut saw excels at delicate, precise tenon and dowel work, offering professional-grade sharpness and an ultra-thin kerf for minimal finish work.
It’s ideal for furniture restorations, and fine joinery. Just mind its limits on very dense hardwoods and ensure careful blade handling.
Why Do Tenon Joints Need Special Saws?
Not all saws are made for joinery. Tenon joints need clean, accurate cuts, and that’s why you can’t use just any hand saw.
A tenon joint is made up of two main parts:
- Shoulders – short cuts across the grain
- Cheeks – long cuts with the grain
Each part must fit tightly against its matching mortise. If your cuts are even slightly off, the joint can end up loose, crooked, or weak. This is why a saw with control and precision is key.
Ordinary saws (like panel saws or rough carpentry saws) are built for speed, not detail. Their teeth are bigger, they leave rougher edges, and they can wander during the cut.
Hand saws made for tenon joints:
- Have a stiff spine (called a back) that keeps the blade straight
- Use fine teeth that make smooth, accurate cuts
- Are filed specifically for rip or crosscut patterns, depending on the cut direction
What Type Of Hand Saws Can Be Used For Tenon Joints?
Not every back saw is ideal for tenon joints. And not every tenon is the same size. So before choosing a saw, you need to know which types actually work well for this specific joint.
Here are the four main saw types used for cutting tenon joints:
1. Tenon Saw (Most Common)
This is the traditional saw made specifically for cutting tenons.
Key Features:
- Blade length: usually 10 to 14 inches
- Teeth: 10 to 14 TPI, often filed for rip cuts (for cheeks)
- Backed with a rigid spine for accuracy
Best Use:
- Medium to large tenons
- Both cheeks and shoulders (if using the right tooth filing)
- Most furniture and frame joinery
Why choose it? It gives a good balance of depth, control, and speed. If you’re buying just one saw for tenon joints, this is the one to start with.
2. Dovetail Saw (For Smaller Tenons)
Originally made for dovetails, but also great for small, precise tenons.
Key Features:
- Blade length: 6 to 10 inches
- Teeth: 14 to 20+ TPI, very fine and clean
- Narrower blade and shallow cut depth
Best Use:
- Small tenons in fine woodworking
- Light cuts, delicate materials
- High-detail projects like boxes or drawers
Not ideal for large tenons; it’s too small and slow. But for small, clean cuts, it’s excellent.
3. Carcass Saw (Shoulder Cutter)
This is a general-purpose joinery saw, sitting between a tenon and dovetail saw.
Key Features:
- Blade length: 10 to 12 inches
- Teeth: 12 to 14 TPI
- Often filed for crosscutting
Best Use:
- Cutting tenon shoulders clean and square
- Making layout cuts before using a tenon saw on the cheeks
It doesn’t cut deep enough for cheeks, but it shines when slicing across the grain.
4. Back Saw (Umbrella Term)
“Back saw” just means any saw with a stiff spine. So a tenon saw, dovetail saw, and carcass saw are all types of back saws.
Best Use:
- This term alone isn’t specific: what matters is the tooth filing, size, and purpose.
If you see “back saw” in a product listing, read the specs carefully. It may be a tenon saw, or it may not be suited for tenon joints at all.
What Features to Look For In A Tenon Saw?
Once you know which type of saw to get, the next step is understanding which features actually affect your cut. Not all tenon saws are created equal, even two saws with the same name can feel and perform very differently.
Below are the features that matter most. These directly affect your accuracy, ease of use, and the quality of your tenon joint.
1. TPI – Teeth Per Inch
TPI controls how smooth or aggressive the cut feels.
- Higher TPI (13–15):
- Cuts more slowly, but very cleanly
- Ideal for cheeks and hardwoods
- Leaves a smoother surface that needs less cleanup
- Lower TPI (10–12):
- Cuts faster, but can be rougher
- Good for large tenons or softwood
- May require more chisel work after the saw cut
Tip: Around 12–14 TPI is a solid middle ground for most tenon work.
2. Tooth Filing Type
The shape of each tooth controls which direction the saw cuts best.
- Rip Cut Filing:
- Cuts along the grain
- Best for cheeks (the long part of the tenon)
- This is what most tenon saws are filed for
- Crosscut Filing:
- Cuts across the grain
- Used more for shoulders, not cheeks
- Common in carcass saws
Make sure you know which filing you’re getting. The wrong tooth type will struggle and leave a messy edge.
3. Blade Length
This affects control and cutting depth.
- 10–12 inches:
- Easier to control
- Ideal for most tenons
- Shorter strokes, less risk of wandering
- 12–14 inches:
- Faster cutting, deeper reach
- Better for large tenons
Important: A longer blade can help cut faster, but only if you can keep it straight.
4. Spine Material (The Back)
The spine keeps the blade stiff and steady.
- Brass spine:
- Heavier, gives more downward pressure
- Helps the saw cut with less force
- Often found in high-end saws
- Steel spine:
- Lighter
- Still adds rigidity, but needs more hand control
The heavier the spine, the more the saw helps itself sink into the cut, reducing strain on your wrist.
5. Handle Design
The handle matters more than most people realize. It affects comfort, grip, and alignment.
- Closed Handles (Pistol Grip):
- Gives more control
- Helps align your wrist and hand
- Preferred for accurate cuts
- Open Handles:
- Lighter, easier to grip in small spaces
- Sometimes found on smaller saws like dovetail saws
Look for smooth edges, solid hardwood, and a shape that fits your hand. A bad grip leads to wandering cuts.
6. Kerf Width
Kerf is how wide the cut is.
- Narrow kerf:
- Removes less wood
- Makes tighter joints
- Found in high-quality, fine-tooth saws
- Wider kerf:
- Removes more material
- Can make the joint too loose
- Usually found in cheap or aggressive saws
You can’t shrink a wide kerf after the cut, so if you care about tight joints, go for fine kerf.
How to Use a Tenon Saw Correctly?
A good saw helps, but how you use it matters just as much. Even a high-end tenon saw won’t give clean joints if your technique is off.
Here’s how to use a tenon saw properly when cutting tenon joints:
1. Mark Clearly Before You Cut
- Use a sharp pencil or marking knife for accurate lines.
- Mark all four sides of the workpiece.
- For best results, use a marking gauge for consistent depth.
A knife line is better than a pencil because it gives the saw a small groove to rest in. That groove helps guide the first strokes.
2. Cut the Shoulders First (Across the Grain)
- Use a saw with crosscut teeth if possible.
- Start at the far corner and tilt the saw toward you.
- Make a shallow groove, then bring the saw level.
- Cut slowly, staying just outside the line.
Cutting shoulders first sets a clean edge and helps prevent tear-out during cheek cuts.
3. Cut the Cheeks (With the Grain)
- Use a rip-filed saw for this part.
- Saw vertically along the face, keeping the blade square.
- Don’t rush, accuracy matters more than speed.
- Let the saw’s weight do most of the work. Don’t force it.
Sawing too fast increases the chance of wandering off the line.
4. Use a Bench Hook or Vice
Always clamp your work or use a bench hook. A slipping board will ruin your cut, no matter how steady your hands are.
Sharpening and Maintenance
Even the best tenon saw won’t perform well if it’s dull or dirty. Keeping it sharp and clean not only improves the cut, it also makes the saw easier to control and extends its lifespan.
Can Tenon Saws Be Sharpened?
Yes, but only if the teeth aren’t hardened. Many quality saws use high-carbon steel that can be sharpened with a file. Some budget saws, though, have impulse-hardened teeth.
These stay sharp longer but can’t be resharpened, you’ll need to replace the blade.
Check before buying: If resharpening matters to you, make sure the saw allows it.
How to Maintain a Tenon Saw?
- Clean the blade after each use
Wipe off sap, pitch, and dust using a rag and light oil (like camellia or WD-40). - Protect the teeth
Use a blade guard or store the saw in a padded case. - Avoid moisture
Keep it dry to prevent rust. A little oil on the blade helps, especially in humid areas.
Sharpening Basics
If you plan to sharpen it yourself:
- Use a triangular saw file matched to the tooth size.
- Clamp the saw in a saw vise or regular vise with wood jaws.
- Follow the original tooth shape, don’t reshape unless you know what you’re doing.
Final Thoughts
Choosing the right tenon saw; one with the proper TPI, a stiff spine, a handle that fits your hand, and a kerf that matches your joint size, turns every cut into a precise, clean fit.
By matching saw type and tooth filing to your cheeks and shoulders, you’ll spend less time cleaning tear-out and more time building joints that lock together snugly.
Invest in a quality saw you can tune and sharpen, and commit to good marking and cutting technique.
With the right tool and care, your tenon joints will be both accurate and durable, so pick the saw that fits your work and keep it sharp.
The Irwin 10 in tenon saw delivers sharp, accurate cuts and a comfortable grip, making fine joinery easy and affordable.
If you see any kind of mistake in our content, make sure to reach out to us.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What is the best saw for a tenon?
A quality backsaw (tenon saw) with these characteristics:
- Blade length: 10–12 in for control and depth.
- TPI: 12–14 TPI balances speed and smoothness.
- Spine: Rigid brass or steel back for straight cuts.
- Handle: Closed pistol-grip that aligns wrist and blade.
This combination delivers precise, square shoulders and cheeks without wandering.
Why is a tenon saw preferred over a hand saw?
- Stiffness: The reinforced spine prevents blade flex, keeping cuts square.
- Fine teeth: Higher TPI yields clean, accurate cuts with minimal tear-out.
- Control: Closed handle and shorter blade give better alignment for joinery.
- Depth: Blade depth matches common tenon sizes, unlike long-back “panel” saws.
Which types of hand and power saws can be used to cut the tenon?
Hand saws:
- Tenon (backsaw): Standard for both shoulders and cheeks.
- Dovetail saw: Fine-tooth for small tenons or delicate shoulder cuts.
- Carcass saw: Crosscut-filed for square, tear-free shoulders.
Power saws:
- Table saw (with tenoning jig): Fast, repeatable shoulders and cheeks.
- Band saw: Good for over-sized or tapered tenons when fitted with fine-tooth blade.
- Track saw: Straight, guided cuts on shoulders; less common for cheeks.
- Miter saw: Precise shoulder cuts when set to 90°; not for deep cheeks.
What is the size rule for a tenon?
- Thickness: ¼ to ⅓ of the workpiece thickness.
- Width: Slightly less than mortise width to allow glue and clearance.
- Length: Equal to, or just shy of, the mortise depth.
- Shoulder overlap: Tenon shoulders should seat flush with the mortised face.
What are the disadvantages of a tenon saw?
- Limited depth: Blade depth restricts maximum tenon size.
- Weight: Brass-back models can fatigue the wrist over long cuts.
- Initial tuning: Factory set/coating often needs adjustment for optimal performance.
- Non-resharpenable blades: Impulse-hardened teeth can’t be filed (on some models).
- Cost: High-precision backsaws typically carry a premium price.
The Grain Bros was started to serve woodworkers who can’t find products for their specific use case. We found out that there are not many media outlets extensively covering this topic. That’s why, we are here, to do the research and find the perfect products for your next DIY project. So you don’t have to juggle your tools and laptop at the same time.
If you see any kind of mistake in our content, make sure to reach out to us.