The Disston 26 in walnut‑handled rip saw delivers smooth, accurate cuts with a durable high‑speed steel blade. Its ergonomic handle and solid build suit both DIYers and professionals.
Wrong Choice = Energy Wasted
Choosing the right saw for rip cuts isn’t as simple as grabbing any hand saw off the shelf.
Rip cuts demand a specific saw design to cut cleanly along the grain without wasting time or energy.
This guide breaks down the best hand saws for rip cuts and what to look for when picking one.
Key Points
- Rip cuts go along the grain and need the right saw for clean, fast results.
- Rip saws use chisel-shaped teeth and low TPI (4–7) to split fibers efficiently.
- A good rip saw should have a stiff, long blade and a comfortable handle.
- Disston D8 offers top performance and build, ideal for serious woodworkers.
- Avoid using crosscut saws for rip cuts, they’re slower and less accurate.
- Don’t choose a blade with too many teeth or too short for long rip cuts.
- Comfort matters, poor grip adds fatigue and throws off accuracy.
- Sharpenable blades last longer and are better for frequent users.
- Rip saws are for straight, fast grain cuts—not curves or plywood.
Some or all Images are generated by AI for illustration.
Best Hand Saws For Rip Cuts
Rip Cut Hand Saw | Details | Blade Length | TPI |
|---|---|---|---|
26 in (66 cm) | 4.5 TPI | ||
26 in (66 cm) | 4.5 TPI | ||
20 in (50.8 cm) | 4.5 TPI | ||
24 in (61 cm) | 4.5 TPI | ||
22 in (56 cm) | 10 PPI (9 TPI) |
Note: We don’t test products ourselves. Instead, we go through user reviews and/or community discussions to find and recommend the best options.
1. Disston D8
The Disston 26 in walnut‑handled rip saw delivers smooth, accurate cuts with a durable high‑speed steel blade. Its ergonomic handle and solid build suit both DIYers and professionals.
Key Features
- Blade Length: 26 in (66 cm) for longer cuts in fewer strokes
- TPI: 4.5 TPI for fast, rough cutting along the wood grain
- Blade Material: High speed steel for lasting sharpness
- Handle Type and Material: Custom carved handle in American black walnut for a comfortable, secure grip
- Saw Type: Rip saw designed for cutting along the grain
- Weight: [Missing data]
Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Heritage: Owning a piece of history connects you to 180+ years of traditional Disston craftsmanship.
- Build Quality: High‑speed steel blade and carved walnut handle deliver lasting reliability and rugged performance.
- Smoothness: Precision‑ground teeth and ergonomic handle make long rip cuts feel effortless and fatigue‑free.
- Accuracy: Keeps true to the marked line for clean rip cuts in both pine and oak without binding.
- Durability: Solid fixed‑blade design stands up to heavy use and will last for generations.
Cons:
- Cheaper Alternatives: New model’s premium cost exceeds that of fully restored vintage alternatives on the secondary market.
- Price: Price is much higher than other hand saws in this list.
Note: These pros and cons are based on user review trends and latent consensus.
Our Verdict
Classic saw for tough rip cuts.
Buy If:
- You value smooth, effortless cuts on pine and oak.
- You need a tool built to last generations.
- You prefer a comfortable grip for long sessions.
Don’t Buy If:
- You shop on a tight budget.
The Disston D8 stands out for its lasting sharpness and ergonomic walnut handle, making heavy rip work feel easy. Its premium price reflects superior build but may not suit casual users. Serious DIYers and pros seeking a lifetime tool will find it worth the investment.
2. Lynx Rip Saw
A well-built rip saw offering sharp teeth, solid steel, and great value, ideal after some light tuning.
Key Features
- Blade Length: 26 in (66 cm)
- TPI: 4.5 TPI
- Blade Material: Alloy spring steel
- Handle Type and Material: Stained European Beech with brass screws
- Saw Type: Hand saw for rip cuts
- Weight: 2.0 lb (0.9 kg)
Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Fast Cutting: Coarse 4.5 TPI rips through hardwood like maple in under an hour, boosting worksite efficiency.
- Smooth Glide: Taper‑ground blade resists binding deep in the kerf for continuous, hassle‑free sawing.
- Straight Lines: Aggressive tooth set cuts true on long boards, minimizing drift on rip cuts.
- Comfortable Grip: Stained beech handle fits single or two‑handed grips without discomfort over extended sawing.
- Easy Sharpening: Spring‑steel blade holds its edge well and files quickly back to peak performance.
- Great Value: Professionals and hobbyists praise performance relative to sub‑$100 price point.
Cons:
- Kerf Start: Coarse teeth may struggle to bite on green or hard wood without a pilot cut or filing first.
- Rough Finish: Aggressive set often leaves ridges that require a plane pass to smooth the rip surface.
- Prep Required: Several users needed to file or reset teeth out of the box before satisfactory performance.
- User Technique: Blade can stall or catch if sawing technique isn’t precise, especially on un‑milled stock.
Note: These pros and cons are based on user review trends and latent consensus.
Our Verdict
Reliable rip cuts at a bargain.
Buy If:
- You want near‑premium ripping performance on a budget.
- You need teeth that arrive sharp for immediate cutting.
- You’re cutting long boards or deep rip cuts in one pass.
- You value a taper‑ground blade for smooth, binding‑free strokes.
- You appreciate balanced weight to reduce hand fatigue.
Don’t Buy If:
- You won’t straighten or set the teeth before use.
- You require a factory‑perfect handle fit out of the box.
- You need a saw that tracks flawlessly without tuning.
This Lynx saw delivers exceptional value and cutting power once tuned, making it ideal for DIYers and tradespeople comfortable with a little setup. If you need zero‑prep perfection or turnkey ergonomics, consider a higher‑end alternative.
3. Lynx Garlick
This 20 in rip saw powers through hardwood with a tapered, 4.5 TPI spring steel blade for fast, straight cuts. The comfortable beech handle and easy‑to‑sharpen blade offer reliable performance on a budget.
Key Features
- Blade Length: 20 in (50.8 cm) blade for long, straight rip cuts
- TPI: 4.5 TPI for fast, efficient wood removal on rip cuts
- Blade Material: Sheffield alloy spring steel for lasting edge and easy sharpening
- Handle Type and Material: Stained European beech handle with brass button screws for a secure grip
- Saw Type: Rip saw filed and taper‑ground to reduce binding and smooth cuts
- Weight: 1.4 lb (0.64 kg) for balanced handling
Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Fast Cutting: Coarse 4.5 TPI rips through hardwood like maple in under an hour, boosting worksite efficiency.
- Smooth Glide: Taper‑ground blade resists binding deep in the kerf for continuous, hassle‑free sawing.
- Straight Lines: Aggressive tooth set cuts true on long boards, minimizing drift on rip cuts.
- Comfortable Grip: Stained beech handle fits single or two‑handed grips without discomfort over extended sawing.
- Easy Sharpening: Spring‑steel blade holds its edge well and files quickly back to peak performance.
- Great Value: Professionals and hobbyists praise performance relative to sub‑$100 price point.
Cons:
- Kerf Start: Coarse teeth may struggle to bite on green or hard wood without a pilot cut or filing first.
- Rough Finish: Aggressive set often leaves ridges that require a plane pass to smooth the rip surface.
- Prep Required: Several users needed to file or reset teeth out of the box before satisfactory performance.
- User Technique: Blade can stall or catch if sawing technique isn’t precise, especially on un‑milled stock.
Note: These pros and cons are based on user review trends and latent consensus.
Our Verdict
Reliable rip cutting with room for prep.
Buy If:
- You want fast cuts through thick hardwood.
- You need straight, drift‑free rip lines.
- You prefer a blade that’s easy to sharpen.
- You need a comfortable handle for long sessions.
- You’re on a budget but demand solid performance.
Don’t Buy If:
- You struggle to start kerfs on un‑milled or green wood.
- You need a smooth finish without planing later.
- You expect perfect out‑of‑the‑box tooth set.
- You lack precise sawing technique for consistent feed.
This saw delivers aggressive, accurate rip cuts and holds its edge well. Plan on filing teeth or making a pilot notch and smoothing with a plane for top results.
4. Crown Rip Saw
A sturdy 24 in rip saw that cuts fast and stays sharp, with a comfortable handle and long‑term resharpening potential. Ideal for DIY and trade use, though it needs a quick prep before first cut.
Key Features
- Blade Length: 24 in (61 cm)
- TPI: 4.5 TPI
- Blade Material: Carbon steel
- Handle Type and Material: Stained beech handle secured with screws
- Saw Type: Rip saw
- Weight: 28 oz (794 g)
Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Sharpness: Blade remains sharp after several hours of aggressive ripping, cutting smoothly with minimal effort.
- Cutting Speed: Stiff, taper‑ground plate slices through stock faster than pull‑style saws, boosting work efficiency.
- Resharpenable: Traditional file‑set design lets users resharpen and reset teeth to suit different woods and restore performance.
- Handle Comfort: Stained beech grip feels balanced and secure, reducing hand fatigue during long cuts.
- Value: Craftsman‑level quality at a mid‑range price point makes it accessible for beginners and pros alike.
Cons:
- Protective Coating: Clear lacquer on blade creates drag and must be stripped off with a solvent before optimal use.
- Initial Setup: Out of the box, some saws need minor filing or tooth‑set adjustment to track straight.
- Blade Flex: More flexible than expected; beginners may need time to adapt technique for consistent cuts.
- Handle Size: Opening can feel oversized for smaller hands, allowing unwanted lateral play.
- TPI Variance: Actual tooth spacing may differ slightly from advertised 4.5 TPI, affecting cut aggressiveness.
Note: These pros and cons are based on user review trends and latent consensus.
Our Verdict
Fast, reliable saw for rip cutting.
Buy If:
- You want rapid cuts through thick stock.
- You plan to resharpen teeth for long-term use.
- You need a mid‑range priced saw with quality feel.
- You need a comfortable handle for extended sessions.
Don’t Buy If:
- You prefer a saw ready to use with no coating removal.
- You dislike initial tooth filing or setup adjustments.
- You have small hands and need a smaller handle profile.
- You require exact advertised TPI for precision ripping.
Overall, this Crown 24″ rip saw delivers fast, aggressive performance when you’re willing to prep and maintain it. It’s a strong value for DIYers and tradespeople who appreciate durability and resharpening potential, but may frustrate those seeking true out‑of‑the‑box perfection.
5. Spear & Jackson 9500R
A budget skew‑back hand saw with a stiff, resharpenable carbon steel blade that delivers straight cuts after some tuning. Easy to maintain for long‑term ripping tasks.
Key Features
- Blade Length: 22 in (56 cm) for deep, controlled rip cuts
- TPI: 10 PPI (9 TPI) for medium‑finish cuts along and across the grain
- Blade Material: Carbon steel blade holds edge and can be resharpened
- Handle Type and Material: Traditional wooden handle secured by rivets for a comfortable, secure grip
- Saw Type: Skew back saw design adds balance and reduces friction in cuts
- Weight: 1.3 lb (0.6 kg) for easy handling and reduced fatigue
Pros & Cons
Pros:
- Customizable: Blade files easily to a true rip profile, letting you tailor tooth geometry for cleaner, faster grain‑parallel cuts.
- Durable: High‑carbon steel teeth aren’t hardened, so you can resharpen infinitely and maintain peak ripping performance.
- Straightcut: Medium‑thick plate resists bending and binding, guiding long rip cuts in boards without veering off line.
- Value: Affordable price gives a lifetime tool—after setup—for ripping tasks without the premium cost of branded saws.
Cons:
- Out‑of‑Box Dull: Universal 10 ppi grind yields slow, laborious grain‑parallel cutting until friction and set are tuned.
- Ripping Efficiency: Stock tooth angle and set designed for general use, not optimized for deep rip cuts in thick timber.
- Ergonomics: Handle opening can bruise or pinch fingers during extended ripping work, requiring reshaping or padding.
- Stability: Some units arrive with a loose handle or slight blade wobble, undermining control on straight rip strokes.
Note: These pros and cons are based on user review trends and latent consensus.
Our Verdict
Reliable with a bit of tuning.
Buy If:
- You need a blade you can file to a true rip profile.
- You want a saw that stays serviceable through multiple resharpenings.
- You need a stiff plate that resists bending for long straight cuts.
- You want a budget‑friendly tool offering decades of use.
Don’t Buy If:
- You expect razor‑sharp rip cuts right out of the box.
- You need factory‑optimized teeth for deep, fast rip cuts.
- You require a handle comfortable for extended use without reshaping.
- You demand perfect blade alignment with zero wobble.
Overall, this saw excels for hands‑on users willing to tune it for ripping. Its durability and straight‑cut performance deliver value, but you’ll sacrifice out‑of‑box readiness and ergonomics.
What Is a Rip Cut, and How Do Rip Cut Saws Work?
A rip cut is a cut that goes along the grain of the wood, not across it. Think of wood like a bundle of straws, all running in one direction. A rip cut slices down the length of those straws, splitting the fibers apart.
This is different from a crosscut, which chops across the straws, cutting the fibers cleanly. Since you’re going with the grain, rip cuts tend to split the wood rather than slice it.
This type of cut takes effort. You’re not just slicing, you’re forcing fibers to separate along their natural lines.
That’s why you need a saw made specifically for the job. A regular hand saw might work, but it’ll be slower, rougher, and might leave a messy edge.
Worse, you might waste energy fighting against the grain instead of working with it.
So what makes a rip cut saw different?
1. Tooth Shape and Size
Rip saws are built for the job from the teeth up. The most important difference is the shape of the teeth.
- Rip saw teeth are shaped like tiny chisels. They’re flat on the front edge and look like squared-off triangles.
- These teeth don’t slice across the wood fibers. They act more like a mini wedge, lifting and prying the fibers apart as you push the saw forward.
The spacing between the teeth is also key. Rip saws have fewer teeth per inch (TPI), usually between 4 and 7 TPI.
This gives each tooth more space to bite deeper into the wood, clearing out chips quickly. A saw with too many teeth will clog up, slow down, and make you work harder than necessary.
Quick tip: If the teeth look fine and tightly spaced, it’s likely a crosscut saw. If they’re bigger and look like they could gouge into the wood, it’s probably a rip saw.
2. Blade Design
Rip saws are designed to cut on the push stroke. That means you apply pressure when pushing forward, and ease up when pulling back. This keeps the cut clean and makes full use of the chisel-like tooth design.
The blade itself is usually longer and thicker than other saw types. A longer blade lets you take longer strokes, which helps the saw stay straight and cut faster.
A thicker blade adds stiffness, so it doesn’t bend while you’re pushing through dense wood.
3. Efficiency Over Clean Finish
Rip saws are built for speed and strength, not beauty. The finish is rougher than what you’d get from a fine-tooth saw. That’s normal.
You’re cutting stock down to size, not doing final surface work. If you want a smooth edge, you’ll plane or sand it later.
Best Uses for Rip Saws (When They Shine)
Rip saws are made for:
- Cutting boards to length along the grain
- Breaking down rough lumber
- Any project that needs clean, straight rips
They’re most useful at a workbench or on sawhorses, where you can stabilize the wood and use long, steady strokes. This is not the tool for tight curves, fine trimming, or cross-grain cuts.
A rip saw’s job is to get the heavy work done fast. You can clean up the results later with a plane or sander.
When Not to Use a Rip Saw
Avoid using a rip saw for:
- Crosscuts (cutting across the grain) — it’ll tear the wood
- Tight curves or detailed shapes — rip saws can’t turn easily
- Plywood or MDF — these materials are layered or dusty and wear down rip saw teeth quickly
If you’re not cutting along the grain of solid wood, a rip saw is probably the wrong choice.
How to Choose the Right Rip Saw for You
Now that you know what to look for, here’s how to make a smart decision based on your own needs.
1. Consider Your Projects
- Just cutting boards or plywood occasionally? A disposable rip saw with hardened teeth might do just fine.
- Doing joinery, furniture, or fine woodworking? Go for a high-quality, resharpenable saw—possibly a back saw for accuracy.
- Working with thick hardwoods or rough stock? Choose a longer, stiffer blade (24″ or more) with 4–5 TPI.
2. Comfort Matters
Don’t underestimate handle comfort. A saw can have perfect specs and still be a nightmare to use if it strains your wrist.
If you’re left-handed, look for handles that accommodate either hand.
3. Your Experience Level
- Beginner? Choose a mid-range saw with a pistol grip, 22–24 inches long, around 5–6 TPI. It’ll cover most tasks.
- Experienced? You might want different saws for different types of rip cuts—a back saw for joinery, a full-size hand saw for breaking down lumber.
4. Budget vs Longevity
- Cheaper saws: Usually under $40, often not resharpenable.
- High-end saws: Can run $70–150+, but last for decades with proper care.
It comes down to how often you plan to use it. If it’s just for a weekend project, a low-cost option is fine. If woodworking is your hobby or profession, spend a bit more now and save money long-term.
Common Mistakes When Buying a Rip Saw (And How to Avoid Them)
Buying a rip saw might seem simple, you just pick one that says “hand saw,” right? But many people end up with the wrong tool, and they don’t realize it until the cut goes crooked, takes forever, or leaves a rough, splintered edge.
Here are the most common mistakes, and how to make sure you don’t make them.
1. Buying a Crosscut Saw by Accident
The mistake: Crosscut saws are more common in hardware stores and look almost the same at first glance. Their teeth are smaller and angled to slice, not split.
How to avoid it:
Check the TPI (4–7) and make sure the teeth are flat/chisel-shaped, not angled like little knives. The label should say “rip” or “ripping”, if it doesn’t, ask or look closer.
2. Choosing a Saw With Too Many Teeth
The mistake: People often assume more teeth = better cut. That’s true for finish work, but not for rip cuts.
How to avoid it:
Stick to 4–7 TPI. More than that and you’ll be forcing the saw through the wood instead of letting the teeth do the work.
3. Getting a Blade That’s Too Short
The mistake: Short blades are easier to store but require more strokes and drift more easily off-line.
How to avoid it:
For most ripping tasks, choose a blade at least 20 inches long. It gives you better control and saves effort.
4. Ignoring Handle Comfort
The mistake: A poor grip can lead to fatigue, slipping, or crooked cuts.
How to avoid it:
Pick a saw with a handle that fits your hand well and won’t rub or pinch during longer sessions.
5. Forgetting About Sharpening
The mistake: Some buyers get a saw that can’t be sharpened and are stuck buying a new one every time it dulls.
How to avoid it:
Check whether the saw has hardened teeth (not sharpenable) or traditional steel teeth (can be sharpened). Match this to how often you’ll use the saw.
Conclusion
Rip cut hand saws are built for power, speed, and straight cuts along the grain.
Whether you’re a hobbyist or pro, choosing the right saw—based on blade length, TPI, and comfort—can make a big difference in your results.
From the high-end Disston D8 to the value-packed Lynx and Spear & Jackson models, each saw offers something unique. Know your needs, tune your tool, and let the saw do the work.
The Disston 26 in walnut‑handled rip saw delivers smooth, accurate cuts with a durable high‑speed steel blade. Its ergonomic handle and solid build suit both DIYers and professionals.
If you see any kind of mistake in our content, make sure to reach out to us.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
What is the best saw blade for rip cuts?
The best blade for rip cuts has large, flat-topped teeth (FTG) with a low tooth count—usually 24 to 30 for circular saws.
For hand tools, a rip saw with 4–7 TPI and chisel-like teeth works best. It clears wood fibers efficiently along the grain.
Are rip saw and hand saw the same?
Not exactly. A rip saw is a type of hand saw made specifically for cutting along the grain. “Hand saw” is a general term that includes rip saws, crosscut saws, and other manual saw types.
Can you rip cut with a circular saw?
Yes, if the blade is designed for ripping. Use a circular saw blade with fewer teeth and a flat-top grind for clean, fast cuts along the grain. Support the wood properly and cut in a straight line for best results.
How many teeth should a rip saw blade have?
For hand saws, 4 to 7 TPI is ideal for rip cuts. For circular saws, 24 to 30 teeth work best. Fewer teeth allow deeper bites and faster chip removal when cutting along the grain.
What is the angle of a rip saw?
Rip saw teeth usually have a 0° to 8° rake (hook) angle and a flat front face. The filing angle is typically 0° across the blade, making each tooth act like a tiny chisel that splits wood fibers cleanly.
The Grain Bros was started to serve woodworkers who can’t find products for their specific use case. We found out that there are not many media outlets extensively covering this topic. That’s why, we are here, to do the research and find the perfect products for your next DIY project. So you don’t have to juggle your tools and laptop at the same time.