Why Deeper Gullets Clear Softwood Faster!

The Upgrade

Deeper gullets are simply the concave spaces behind each tooth that are made larger so they can hold and eject more chip.

On hand saws this is a design choice—either choose a saw with pronounced gullets (a ripping/coarse blade) or carefully deepen existing gullets during sharpening.

This article focuses only on using or adding deeper gullets to improve ripping performance in softwood; it does not cover major blade redesigns or power tools.

Why It Helps

Deeper gullets speed cutting in softwood by changing how chips are formed and removed. When a tooth slices along the grain it produces larger, continuous shavings.

If the gullet can store and eject those shavings, the kerf stays clear and each tooth meets fresh wood on the next stroke.

That lowers binding and keeps the cut smoother, though coarser teeth with deeper gullets may require slightly more effort per stroke.

Clearer chip removal can reduce friction somewhat, which may help teeth stay sharper longer, though dulling mainly depends on tooth hardness and set, so the saw holds performance across the length of a board.

You also get more consistent tooth engagement: teeth cut cleanly rather than shoveling compressed dust, which translates into a steadier feed rate and fewer corrective strokes.

Those gains come with tradeoffs worth acknowledging up front. Bigger gullets increase the kerf volume and are optimized for along-the-grain work; they’re less suited to fine finish or precise crosscuts, though they can handle rough crosscutting in softwood when speed matters more than finish.

When you want speed in softwood rips, the benefit is clear; when surface quality or minimal waste matter, a shallower-gulleted blade is the better default.

How to Add/Use

1. Choose the right blade first

For most users, the simplest route is selection: pick a saw designed for ripping with coarse teeth and pronounced gullets. That gets you the clearing behavior without any modification. If you’re working stock that is regularly ripped, buy a ripping blade rather than altering a general-purpose or finish saw.

2. Maintain existing gullets

Before any filing, maximize what you already have. Keep teeth sharp and free of pitch or resin that narrows gullets. Remove buildup with a stiff brush, solvent as needed, and a short pass with a file to restore tooth profile if teeth have nicked. Check tooth set so the teeth clear the kerf; an uneven set can negate any gullet advantage.

3. Adjust your technique to use deeper gullets

Deeper gullets work best with steady, longer strokes that allow full-length chips to form and be expelled. Let the saw travel the stroke length instead of chopping; maintain a consistent tilt and feed so each tooth takes a full chip rather than a crumbly dust. Keep your cutting line supported and avoid forcing the saw—if chips stop flowing, back out, clear the kerf, and resume.

4. Modifying a blade (practical steps and cautions)

Only attempt gullet-deepening if you are comfortable sharpening; otherwise consult a professional. Work incrementally and evenly across the blade:

• Secure the saw in a vise so the teeth are visible and stable.
• Mark symmetry points to keep gullets uniform.
• Use a concave or round file sized to the gullet and remove only small amounts per pass; work the same number of strokes on each gullet to preserve balance.
• After reshaping, equalize tooth height, touch up the point profile, and reset teeth as needed.
• Test on scrap and refine; stop immediately if tooth roots appear thin, cracked, or weakened.

Overfiling weakens teeth and shortens blade life, so less is more. Simple field fixes—cleaning resin, re-setting a few teeth, or restoring sharpness—often deliver most of the practical gain without structural risk.

What You’ll Notice

With deeper gullets and the right technique you’ll feel a smoother, more consistent cut on rip jobs in softwood.

Expect fewer stalls and less hand fatigue: the saw will advance with fewer corrective strokes and less push force. Chips coming from the kerf will be larger and looser rather than fine, compact dust.

On long rip cuts the edge will remain sharper for longer because chips clear instead of smearing and heating the teeth.

The compromise shows up when you look at crossgrain edges: tear-out may be more pronounced and the kerf wider than a fine-tooth blade, so finish sanding or trimming might be needed when appearance is important.

When to Skip

Don’t use deeper gullets when the job prioritizes minimal waste, tight tolerances, or a fine surface. Fine joinery—dovetails, fine tenons, veneers, and trim—benefits from shallow gullets and finer teeth that prioritize finish over clearing.

Very thin stock can be damaged by a larger gullet’s looser chip flow, and dense hardwoods produce finer dust that packs tightly, so deeper gullets can still help with clearance—but gains are smaller and tooth bite must be moderate to avoid chatter.

If you need a single versatile saw for mixed tasks, favor a balanced tooth profile rather than an aggressive gullet designed strictly for fast softwood ripping.

Specs & Signals

1. Practical tooth-per-inch guidance

• Coarse ripping work: choose low single-digit to mid single-digit TPI (coarser teeth, larger gullets).
• General-purpose midwork: aim for high single-digit to low double-digit TPI (moderate gullet volume).
• Finish and crosscut: use higher single-digit to double-digit-plus TPI (shallow gullets).

2. How to tell if deeper gullets are doing their job

• Kerf remains clear for multiple strokes and chips eject visibly.
• The same cut requires fewer strokes or noticeably less push pressure.
• Edge dulling slows during long rips compared to the previous blade condition.
• Chip size on scrap shifts from powdery dust to intact shavings.

3. Simple tests to compare performance

Time a repeatable rip of mid-length stock (for example, about a foot to a foot-and-a-half) before and after changes; a clear improvement in elapsed time or stroke count indicates benefit.

Compare chip samples from the same cut—consistent, larger chips show effective clearing. If you see thin or cracked tooth roots after modification, stop and seek professional help.

The Bottom Line

For intermediate woodworkers who do a lot of rip cutting in softwood, deeper gullets—either by choosing a ripping blade or by cautious, even gullet re-profiling—deliver faster, less fatiguing cuts by keeping the kerf clear and teeth cutting fresh wood.

Start with the right saw and maintenance; modify only if you can preserve tooth shape and strength. When finish or material constraints matter, stick with a shallower-gulleted blade.